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Perast, Boka Kotorska
The tiny medieval town of Perast resembles an exquisite piece of jewelry, designed to adorn the Bay of Kotor and serve as a meeting place for sailors. The town has about three hundred houses and fewer than three hundred residents, yet the flow of tourists here never stops. Curious travelers arrive in large and small buses, in private and rented cars, stroll through the town, and inevitably fall into the hands of enterprising locals who transport them in small fishing boats between Perast and its islands.
Perast is a town that looks like it has stepped right out of a painting. Its appearance has remained almost unchanged since the 18th century. If you look closely, you won’t find a single modern building in Perast (except for one—the abandoned sewing factory built during the Yugoslav era, though it does not stand out). Modern construction in the town is prohibited in an effort to preserve its original appearance. A curious detail is that residents cannot simply patch a hole in their roof using new tiles like everyone else. Since new tiles would contrast with the rest of the town’s rooftops, they must search for old, faded tiles to maintain the town’s historical look.
The history of this medieval town dates back to the 15th century when the people of Perast, showing ingenuity, decided to engage in intermediary trade. During this period, they descended from Mount St. Elijah, where they had been engaged in viticulture, to its foothills and began mastering shipbuilding. In the Middle Ages, people were not particularly interested in sunbathing or swimming; instead, they sought survival, climbing into the mountains in search of water and food. However, they couldn’t ignore the ships bustling right under their noses, bringing wealth to the residents of Kotor.
The people of Perast had neither goods nor money—they had to borrow from aristocrats in Kotor and Dubrovnik. Fortunately, trade proved to be profitable. Using small, lightweight, and maneuverable ships, the townspeople reached the commercial hubs of Greece, Italy, Dalmatia, and Albania while skillfully avoiding Turkish pirate ships, returning safely to the Bay of Kotor. Debts were repaid, and there was enough for a decent life. In the 15th century, Perast’s captains began constructing their palaces right on the seashore, at the foot of Mount Elijah.
Around the same time, the Republic of Venice took an interest in Perast, having just annexed the Bay of Kotor and much of the Adriatic coastline. It turned out that the town occupied a strategically important position—therefore, it had to become the guardian of the sea route leading directly to Kotor, Venice’s main outpost in the Bay of Kotor. Soon, Perast received the status of a border town (marking the boundary between Venetian territory and the ever-expanding Ottoman lands), and most importantly, it became the keeper of the Venetian military flag. Three hundred years later—after the fall of Venice—the people of Perast would hold a solemn and sorrowful ceremony, burying the flag beneath the altar of the town’s main church, St. Nicholas Church.
The Venetians rewarded the residents of Perast with knowledge, but they did not provide the funds to build a fortress wall. The townspeople had to find their own solutions. Each captain who built a new palace added a watchtower to it. This way, both the family in the palace and the city itself benefited. At the highest point above the town, they constructed the Fortress of the Holy Cross. Today, only ruins remain of the fortress, and of the watchtowers, only memories—when a road was built around the Bay of Kotor in the early 20th century, anything in its way was demolished.
It was at that time that one of the fundamental principles of construction in the Bay of Kotor was lost.
The history of this medieval town dates back to the 15th century when the people of Perast, showing ingenuity, decided to engage in intermediary trade. During this period, they descended from Mount St. Elijah, where they had been engaged in viticulture, to its foothills and began mastering shipbuilding. In the Middle Ages, people were not particularly interested in sunbathing or swimming; instead, they sought survival, climbing into the mountains in search of water and food. However, they couldn’t ignore the ships bustling right under their noses, bringing wealth to the residents of Kotor.
The people of Perast had neither goods nor money—they had to borrow from aristocrats in Kotor and Dubrovnik. Fortunately, trade proved to be profitable. Using small, lightweight, and maneuverable ships, the townspeople reached the commercial hubs of Greece, Italy, Dalmatia, and Albania while skillfully avoiding Turkish pirate ships, returning safely to the Bay of Kotor. Debts were repaid, and there was enough for a decent life. In the 15th century, Perast’s captains began constructing their palaces right on the seashore, at the foot of Mount Elijah.
Around the same time, the Republic of Venice took an interest in Perast, having just annexed the Bay of Kotor and much of the Adriatic coastline. It turned out that the town occupied a strategically important position—therefore, it had to become the guardian of the sea route leading directly to Kotor, Venice’s main outpost in the Bay of Kotor. Soon, Perast received the status of a border town (marking the boundary between Venetian territory and the ever-expanding Ottoman lands), and most importantly, it became the keeper of the Venetian military flag. Three hundred years later—after the fall of Venice—the people of Perast would hold a solemn and sorrowful ceremony, burying the flag beneath the altar of the town’s main church, St. Nicholas Church.
The Venetians rewarded the residents of Perast with knowledge, but they did not provide the funds to build a fortress wall. The townspeople had to find their own solutions. Each captain who built a new palace added a watchtower to it. This way, both the family in the palace and the city itself benefited. At the highest point above the town, they constructed the Fortress of the Holy Cross. Today, only ruins remain of the fortress, and of the watchtowers, only memories—when a road was built around the Bay of Kotor in the early 20th century, anything in its way was demolished.
It was at that time that one of the fundamental principles of construction in the Bay of Kotor was lost.
In the past, very few people used roads—everyone traveled by ship, docking right in front of their homes, unloading goods, and embracing their loved ones. The stone ledges along Perast’s waterfront are all that remain of the medieval private moorings. Today, they are used for setting up restaurant tables and beach loungers.
The captains of Perast were renowned across the Mediterranean. One of the most famous among them was Marko Martinović, to whom cadets from Peter the Great of Russia were sent for naval training. Their names are recorded by an unknown artist in a painting, where nearly every figure appears identical—whether it be Marko Martinović himself or the noblemen, depicted as stern men with long, hanging mustaches.
On the next canvas, another legendary Perast captain, Matija Zmajević, is portrayed. His life story is worthy of an adventure novel. Imprisoned in Constantinople after a fight, he was rescued by none other than Peter the Great, who later brought him to St. Petersburg. Over the years, Matija rose through the ranks, from captain of the first rank to commander of the galley fleet, then chief commander of the St. Petersburg port, and finally admiral of the Russian Empire. In the lists of Russian admirals, he can be found under the name Matvey Khristoforovich, the name he was given in Russia.
These paintings, along with many historical artifacts, can be seen in the Naval Museum of Perast. Among the exhibits are the diaries of Pyotr Andreevich Tolstoy, the first Count of the illustrious Tolstoy dynasty, who oversaw the training of Russian noble cadets in Perast and advocated for Matija Zmajević before Peter the Great. Also displayed are letters from Peter the Great himself and the St. Andrew’s flag.
Every year, on May 15, Perast becomes crowded under the 55-meter bell tower of St. Nicholas Church, the tallest in this part of the Adriatic. On this day, the town celebrates a unique tradition—"Gađanje kokota" ("Shoot the Rooster").
The tradition dates back to 1654, when Ottoman Turks attacked Perast. According to legend, the Ottoman forces numbered in the thousands, while Perast had fewer than a hundred defenders. Against all odds, the town was successfully defended. In memory of that bloody battle, every year on May 15, a brightly colored rooster figure is placed on a floating platform at sea, symbolizing the once-dreaded Ottoman Empire. Young men of the town line up along the quay, holding replicas of old muskets, and take turns shooting at the rooster. The one who hits the target is declared the hero of the festival and is awarded a bowl of Vranac, the famous Montenegrin red wine. The celebration continues with a solemn procession through the town, where people carry icons and banners, honoring their ancestors.
Centuries have passed. The steam engine quietly replaced sailing ships, and stories of battles and captains became legends. Today, cruise liners sail past Perast’s medieval palaces, and from their upper decks, the town appears like a theatrical stage, seemingly built not for history, but simply to adorn the bay and serve as a meeting place for seafarers.
The captains of Perast were renowned across the Mediterranean. One of the most famous among them was Marko Martinović, to whom cadets from Peter the Great of Russia were sent for naval training. Their names are recorded by an unknown artist in a painting, where nearly every figure appears identical—whether it be Marko Martinović himself or the noblemen, depicted as stern men with long, hanging mustaches.
On the next canvas, another legendary Perast captain, Matija Zmajević, is portrayed. His life story is worthy of an adventure novel. Imprisoned in Constantinople after a fight, he was rescued by none other than Peter the Great, who later brought him to St. Petersburg. Over the years, Matija rose through the ranks, from captain of the first rank to commander of the galley fleet, then chief commander of the St. Petersburg port, and finally admiral of the Russian Empire. In the lists of Russian admirals, he can be found under the name Matvey Khristoforovich, the name he was given in Russia.
These paintings, along with many historical artifacts, can be seen in the Naval Museum of Perast. Among the exhibits are the diaries of Pyotr Andreevich Tolstoy, the first Count of the illustrious Tolstoy dynasty, who oversaw the training of Russian noble cadets in Perast and advocated for Matija Zmajević before Peter the Great. Also displayed are letters from Peter the Great himself and the St. Andrew’s flag.
Every year, on May 15, Perast becomes crowded under the 55-meter bell tower of St. Nicholas Church, the tallest in this part of the Adriatic. On this day, the town celebrates a unique tradition—"Gađanje kokota" ("Shoot the Rooster").
The tradition dates back to 1654, when Ottoman Turks attacked Perast. According to legend, the Ottoman forces numbered in the thousands, while Perast had fewer than a hundred defenders. Against all odds, the town was successfully defended. In memory of that bloody battle, every year on May 15, a brightly colored rooster figure is placed on a floating platform at sea, symbolizing the once-dreaded Ottoman Empire. Young men of the town line up along the quay, holding replicas of old muskets, and take turns shooting at the rooster. The one who hits the target is declared the hero of the festival and is awarded a bowl of Vranac, the famous Montenegrin red wine. The celebration continues with a solemn procession through the town, where people carry icons and banners, honoring their ancestors.
Centuries have passed. The steam engine quietly replaced sailing ships, and stories of battles and captains became legends. Today, cruise liners sail past Perast’s medieval palaces, and from their upper decks, the town appears like a theatrical stage, seemingly built not for history, but simply to adorn the bay and serve as a meeting place for seafarers.
