Budva
And indeed, Budva is a small resort town on the Adriatic coast. However, it is the Budva Riviera—the resort suburb of Budva—that fills with hundreds of thousands of tourists during the summer months. Budva is home to the largest hotels and the busiest beaches on the entire coast.
Today, the modern districts of Budva are a mix of cozy family homes built during the Yugoslav era and high-rise buildings squeezed between them, featuring architecture uncharacteristic of the area. In these new districts, there is absolutely nothing to do unless you live there, but the medieval Old Town is a must-visit. Medieval Budva is yet another Venetian fortress in the southern Adriatic. However, the city’s founders were not Venetians at all.

The ancient Greeks, tireless seafarers, would dock along the shores when their supplies of water and food were running low. If the local population was friendly, they would establish a new trading colony—an emporium. According to historians, around 500 BC, this is how Budua, modern-day Budva, was founded. The Greeks, being not only relentless navigators but also enthusiastic storytellers, created a beautiful legend about it.

However, the local residents, not being fond of reading books in general, and myths and legends in particular, only learned about Budva’s founders in the early 20th century when they started constructing a hotel beneath the walls of the Old Town. Twelve centuries of burials—an ancient Greco-Roman necropolis—were discovered by surprised builders digging the foundation pit. The hotel was built anyway—it is now the modern "Avala." The most interesting artifacts were distributed among the museums of the former Yugoslavia. Meanwhile, children happily jump on a Roman tombstone from the 2nd century AD, which still stands at the hotel entrance, and in Budva’s tiny archaeological museum, you can see glass vials filled with the tears of grieving Roman women bidding farewell to their husbands departing for Pluto’s kingdom.

Medieval Budva is a small town. Founded by the Greeks as a trading colony, its purpose has remained unchanged for two and a half thousand years. The medieval artisan shops on the ground floors of buildings are easy to recognize—there is no separation between doors and windows; they form a single space.
In the past, craftsmen would open the window to display their goods while keeping the door shut, but now shop windows entice buyers inside. The main souvenir of Budva is an image of two stone fish.

A few years ago, an artist popularized a medieval legend about a poor stonemason and a wealthy aristocrat who fell passionately in love. Medieval legends rarely have happy endings, and in this case, unable to overcome the prejudices of the aristocratic family, the lovers held hands and threw themselves into the sea. But they did not perish; instead, they turned into two fish—never separated and at the same time, providing a hidden meaning to the city’s name. Budva, in this interpretation, means "we will be together."

It is impossible to get lost in the Old Town. The city is surrounded by a kilometer-long wall, which can be entered through one of four gates—Land Gate, Iron Gate, Pisan Gate, or North Gate. Another gate, the Trash Gate, can only be seen from the sea; during sieges, waste was thrown out of the city through this gate, and food supplies were brought in.

The labyrinth of narrow streets leads to the main artisan street, which in turn leads to the only city square—Church Square. All of Budva’s churches are located here—one Orthodox and three Catholic, two of them still functioning, two abandoned, and one reduced to just its foundation. How many you count depends on your perspective from the square.

Above the square flies the red Montenegrin flag with a golden double-headed eagle. It is mounted on the observation deck of the city’s main fortification—the Venetian Citadel. From the top of the flagpole, at the highest point of the city, you can take those iconic photographs that adorn travel guides dedicated to the vibrant, medieval, and at the same time modern Budva—the megapolis of modern tourism.
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