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Bar opposite Bari
In the city of Belgrade, the capital of the former Yugoslavia, a single-track railway stretches for 500 kilometers. The train ascends to the highest mountain peaks, crosses bridges over bottomless gorges, passes through endless tunnels, cuts through the vast Skadar Lake, and finally reaches its final destination – the Adriatic coast. Completed in 1975, the Belgrade–Bar railway connected the capital with the sea.
Bar is the largest seaport on the Montenegrin coast, but cruise liners often bypass it in favor of Kotor, which is richer in history and more tourist-friendly, with attractions conveniently located right by the waterfront. Bar is divided into two parts: Old Bar, located at the foot of Mount Rumija, four kilometers from the sea, and New Bar, whose neighborhoods are adjacent to the port. If you are not a fan of medieval ruins, you can stay by the sea, stroll through modern streets, and explore boutiques—small shops selling Italian clothing.
Bar maintains regular sea connections with Italy. Directly across the Adriatic Sea, opposite Bar, lies the Italian city of Bari. Interestingly, Italians refer to the Montenegrin shore as "Antibari," meaning "opposite Bari." The distance to Italy is 100 nautical miles, which a sailing yacht like Oceanis can cover in less than a day. Montenegrins say that if you climb high enough into the Montenegrin mountains, in good weather and with some imagination, you can see Italy on the horizon.
During the summer, and sometimes even in winter, passenger ferries cross the Adriatic daily. Spend a night on the ferry, and by morning, you’ll find yourself on the opposite shore. It is from there, from Italy, that fashion novelties arrive in Bar’s boutiques, purchased by shop owners in large Italian shopping centers.
Not only goods arrive from Italy to the Montenegrin coast, but also Italians themselves. In Italy, gambling is prohibited, whereas in Montenegro, casinos, gaming clubs, and betting shops can be found on nearly every corner. Passionate Italians arrive in Montenegro on Friday ferries and spend the weekend testing their luck—some lose their savings, while others become millionaires, depending on fate.
After experiencing the modern side of the city, it is worth diving into its history, starting with a walk along the promenade and heading toward King Nikola’s palace. King Nikola Petrović-Njegoš belonged to the famous dynasty that ruled Montenegro for over two hundred years, fifty-eight of which were under his reign. A military leader, poet, skilled diplomat, and the “father-in-law of Europe,” he married off nine daughters, all successfully. Note that aside from a modest two-story royal residence with an attic, you might easily pass by without recognizing it as a palace.
Bar maintains regular sea connections with Italy. Directly across the Adriatic Sea, opposite Bar, lies the Italian city of Bari. Interestingly, Italians refer to the Montenegrin shore as "Antibari," meaning "opposite Bari." The distance to Italy is 100 nautical miles, which a sailing yacht like Oceanis can cover in less than a day. Montenegrins say that if you climb high enough into the Montenegrin mountains, in good weather and with some imagination, you can see Italy on the horizon.
During the summer, and sometimes even in winter, passenger ferries cross the Adriatic daily. Spend a night on the ferry, and by morning, you’ll find yourself on the opposite shore. It is from there, from Italy, that fashion novelties arrive in Bar’s boutiques, purchased by shop owners in large Italian shopping centers.
Not only goods arrive from Italy to the Montenegrin coast, but also Italians themselves. In Italy, gambling is prohibited, whereas in Montenegro, casinos, gaming clubs, and betting shops can be found on nearly every corner. Passionate Italians arrive in Montenegro on Friday ferries and spend the weekend testing their luck—some lose their savings, while others become millionaires, depending on fate.
After experiencing the modern side of the city, it is worth diving into its history, starting with a walk along the promenade and heading toward King Nikola’s palace. King Nikola Petrović-Njegoš belonged to the famous dynasty that ruled Montenegro for over two hundred years, fifty-eight of which were under his reign. A military leader, poet, skilled diplomat, and the “father-in-law of Europe,” he married off nine daughters, all successfully. Note that aside from a modest two-story royal residence with an attic, you might easily pass by without recognizing it as a palace.
Locals call it Villa Topolica. You won’t encounter royal heirs inside, but you can view historical museum exhibits, stroll through the shady park, and enjoy a cup of coffee in the former Winter Garden, a gift from Italian King Victor Emmanuel to Montenegrin King Nikola.
New Bar is filled with the sounds of the port, car horns, laughter along the crowded promenade, heat shimmering over the hot asphalt, and narrow concrete buildings with shutters closed against the summer sun. It is only a hundred years old and serves as the successor to the city located four kilometers from the sea at the foot of Mount Rumija. There, it is always quiet. Old Bar is where history began. Today, it is considered the largest medieval city in Montenegro, though it lies in ruins. The Montenegrins themselves, led by King Nikola, were a bit too zealous when liberating it from the Turks, and the earthquake of 1979 inflicted even more damage on the city.
The stone arches of the aqueduct that supplied Old Bar with drinking water for centuries, the powerful fortress walls, church facades, Turkish clock tower, polished stone roads with grass sprouting through, and the chirping of cicadas in the still air—all contribute to the atmosphere of Old Bar. It is a blend of Slavic, Venetian, and Turkish urban traditions. Old Bar stands elevated, looking down from its fortress walls like an elder watching over modern New Bar and the sea.
The old town is gradually being revived. Archaeologists carefully excavate it, restorers replace missing elements, and artists bring it to life with meaning. Around the fortress walls, small plastered houses are nestled in greenery. Many Muslims reside in this part of Bar, lending an oriental charm to the narrow souvenir street leading to the old city’s gates. Beneath Turkish wooden balconies, you can take a break from sightseeing with a cup of tea and compare the flavors of different types of baklava.
As evening falls, the bells of the Orthodox Church of St. Vladimir ring, mass begins at the Catholic Cathedral of St. Nicholas, and the prolonged call of the muezzin echoes over the city. A ferry departs from the pier in Bar—a city opposite Italy, or Italy opposite the city.
New Bar is filled with the sounds of the port, car horns, laughter along the crowded promenade, heat shimmering over the hot asphalt, and narrow concrete buildings with shutters closed against the summer sun. It is only a hundred years old and serves as the successor to the city located four kilometers from the sea at the foot of Mount Rumija. There, it is always quiet. Old Bar is where history began. Today, it is considered the largest medieval city in Montenegro, though it lies in ruins. The Montenegrins themselves, led by King Nikola, were a bit too zealous when liberating it from the Turks, and the earthquake of 1979 inflicted even more damage on the city.
The stone arches of the aqueduct that supplied Old Bar with drinking water for centuries, the powerful fortress walls, church facades, Turkish clock tower, polished stone roads with grass sprouting through, and the chirping of cicadas in the still air—all contribute to the atmosphere of Old Bar. It is a blend of Slavic, Venetian, and Turkish urban traditions. Old Bar stands elevated, looking down from its fortress walls like an elder watching over modern New Bar and the sea.
The old town is gradually being revived. Archaeologists carefully excavate it, restorers replace missing elements, and artists bring it to life with meaning. Around the fortress walls, small plastered houses are nestled in greenery. Many Muslims reside in this part of Bar, lending an oriental charm to the narrow souvenir street leading to the old city’s gates. Beneath Turkish wooden balconies, you can take a break from sightseeing with a cup of tea and compare the flavors of different types of baklava.
As evening falls, the bells of the Orthodox Church of St. Vladimir ring, mass begins at the Catholic Cathedral of St. Nicholas, and the prolonged call of the muezzin echoes over the city. A ferry departs from the pier in Bar—a city opposite Italy, or Italy opposite the city.
